MH_Cortina

I will enjoy following this one. Good Luck John! Looks like you have a good man on the job too! Oh to be able to weld......... Keep it coming please!

Did you move this one Dave?

Had the MK3 2000E up to 85mph on the M6 but there was more to go......only owned the car about 20minutes so didn't trust the mechanics and brakes. Stopping is the scary bit on the open road. Pleanty of idiots about.

I like the RED radiator (not)!! Don't understand why people don't take the time to mask off areas when spraying.....

So given that I enquired first Darren can I have first refusal? Will it suit a 1300 crossflow? Straight swop etc? What abour air filter arrangement? I can't wait to bin my VV Carb. What a load of crap. Totally unreliable in the long term and guaranteed to let you down. I remember when they came out on the Escorts in the early eighties. Nothing but grief.

You still got this Darren?

It isn't a single gasket,there are 4 and 1 is different to the others. OK - Noted. I haven't read the manuals yet!

Thanks Rob. I'm suspicious at the moment but don't want to go messing about until I have a gasket in hand.

How does one know if the exhaust manifold gasket on a 2000cc pinto s leaking or blown? What are the symptoms? Thanks.

Thanks Rob. I cheated a little showing the best two sides both its not bad. Had it out for 351 miles round trip yesterday and got home in one piece. No pools of oil or water either! Needs a few bits here and there but what car doesn't?

The alternator also went on the blink so I bit the bullet and bought a new one! It's a slightly higher ampage and given the fact that I had a new, decent size battery fitted, I decided to take no chances and just replace it for a new one.

I decided it was about time to take the 2000E out of the shed, do a few jobs and take it for a spin! Had it up to 80mph no problem last night on the way to visit my Mother. My Youngest lad (Subaru, Honda, Evo etc fan) was amazed that it could go past 50! He's only 12 so please be gentle on him. Fitted a new oil pressure warning light bulb. This was a pain in the rear. Henry Ford has a lot to answer for here, having to remove the dash just to fit a small bulb! Speedo cable was a right nuisance. Anyway it's done now and I needed it working. Had it outside the house for a few days as the weather was nice and warm with no rain. Plenty of admirers, even caught one lad taking a photo with his phone! It's not perfect, by any means, but its a presentable car which starts and goes and more importantly, its all MINE!!!

Alternator Troubleshooting 1. Start the engine and bring it to up to its normal speed rpm. Using a voltmeter, check the voltage across the battery posts. • 13.6-14.6 VOLTS: Go to step 2. • UNDER 13 VOLTS: Go to step 3. • OVER 15 VOLTS: Go to step 6. 2. Turn on all accessories, including the heater, electric fans, stereo, wipers, headlights (including high-beams). • IMMEDIATE UNDER 13-VOLT READING: Go to step 3. • VOLTAGE SLOWLY DECREASES FROM READING IN STEP 1: Go to step 4. • OVER 15 VOLTS: Go to step 6. 3. Connect a voltmeter between the alternator’s output (BAT) terminal and Ground. Test as in step 2. • 13.6-14.6 VOLTS: The alternator is OK. Power from the alternator is not getting to the battery. Go to step 4. UNDER 13.6 VOLTS: Go to step 5. • OVER 15 VOLTS: Go to step 6. 4. Check the battery cables and alternator charge wire for bad connections, improper cable and wire size, or corrosion. Repair or replace as needed. Repeat the step 2 test procedure. • 13.6-14.6 VOLTS: Stop—you’ve fixed the problem. • INITIAL 13.6-14.6 VOLT READING, BUT SLOWLY DECREASES: Go to step 5. 5. Check the alternator drivebelt. Adjust its tension or replace as needed. Be sure you have the right pulley ratio. Never underdrive an alternator. The crank pulley should be three times larger than the alternator pulley (a 3:1 ratio). Repeat the step 2 test procedure. • CONSTANT 13.6-14.6 VOLTS: Stop—the problem is fixed. • INITIAL 13.6-14.6 VOLT READING, BUT SLOWLY DECREASES: Your alternator is operating normally, but it can’t keep up with the vehicle’s current demands. Upgrade to a higher-output alternator. • IMMEDIATE UNDER-13.6 VOLT READING: Go to step 6. 6. Bypass the regulator. Is the alternator externally or internally regulated? • EXTERNAL REGULATOR: Go to step 7. • INTERNAL REGULATOR: Go to step 8. 7. Unplug the harness from the regulator. With the engine running, connect a jumper wire from the connector’s B+ terminal to the connector’s Field terminal (on most GM cars, those are the red and blue wires, respectively, as shown). Do this for no more than 30 seconds at a time. • RESULT: Expect to see an arc (don’t worry; this is not a short to ground). The engine will bog down. The alternator should have an audible whir and ramp up to its max output. • ARC: Repair or replace regulator. NO ARC: Open Field circuit or worn-out alternator brushes. Fix or replace as needed. 8. Late-model GM CS alternators don’t have serviceable regulators; the entire unit must be replaced. On GM SI alternators, with the voltmeter still hooked up to the alternator BAT terminal, use a screwdriver or similar tool to ground the small tab inside the D-shaped hole in the back of the case. • VOLTAGE IS HIGHER THAN BEFORE: Repair or replace regulator. • VOLTAGE IS LOWER THAN BEFORE: Repair or replace alternator.

Hmmmm 2 door too. Wheels look odd though. Seems to be sitting high for a GT?

Thanks for that Craig. Might have a closer look today. Been reading the manuals last night and noticed that there are 3 different types (differernt amps out too). Learn something new evach day! Will also try measuring the voltage (12v vs 14v) with and without engine running and across two different points as the earth lead from the battery loks a bit ropey. Worst case I will remove it and drop it in with the auto electrician shop tomorrow, as he's only a half mile from the house.